May

Location: Alotau Hospital, PNG
Time: 5.50pm, 31st May

My concentration was limited to ten second counts... 25, 26 beats. Movements felt in slow motion and I called Jerry, Albert or forgot completely. Instructions were broken and trailed off into empty space as my mind fell from one strange idea to the next. Heat radiated from my knee like a glowing ember, I needed to get out of the tent quickly. The leg, swollen and incapable of moving all day suddenly didn't hurt. I crawled outside and onto the palm mat. Jack immediately began sponging me down with damp tea towels and the breeze blew mercifully strong. I didn't want to close my eyes. After 20 minutes the world came back into focus as heart rate dropped with temperature to 120. The rescue boat from Chris Abel's Alotau tour business arrived 2 hours later with painkillers and antibiotics. The kayak just fitted in and made an ideal backrest, while both legs rested on life jackets along the padded bench seat. For five hours the jarring bolts of pain could only be hidden so much. The driver apologised, I told him to go faster. To cut an even longer story shorter, my prediction of 100% recovery a few days ago proved a little 'Oscar over-optimistic'. I'm in Alotau Hospital where they knocked me out briefly to drain more pus. I'm recovering in the surgery ward. Special kudos to Gary Forrest from the Sunny Coast- cellulitis with staph infection it is- probably from insect bite. The doctor said a tube-like black thing drained out and he couldn't decide if it was a foreign object or congealed blood. The pain, even with pethadeine is slow to subside, and my temperature and sweats are up and down. Apart from that I'm in rude good health and in a week will decide about continuing. Right now I'd just like to be walking around again- I make for a terrible patient cooped up like this.

Very massive and continuous thanks to James and Bec for organising the rescue boat, Cathy and Matt for medical and logistical support, Jack Buia, his family and the entire Isadiudiu village for giving more care than I could have hoped for. Jack was even ready to paddle 150km to Alotau to return the kayak! And my apologies to those I know would have worried. I'll keep the posts coming daily or for as long the nurses agree to wheel me outside for satellite reception. At least now I have plenty of time to read Moby Dick.

HOSPITAL STAY
Time: 6.45pm, 30th May
No updates from Andrew directly as he faces three days in hospital with an antibiotic drip in his arm. Here in Adelaide we've never had so many satellite phone calls before but unfortunately they are always brief. As soon as he is able he will fire up the computer and send his own words and images!

SPECIAL UPDATE
Time: 8.15am, 30th May
Andrew is currently in Alotau receiving medical treatment. He has been diagnoised with cellulitis (thanks Gary for your earlier email diagnosis) and the full extent of the injury is being investigated.

It appears Jack is off the hook - the kayak was able to be squeezed onto the boat that collected Andrew yesterday afternoon.

An update will be posted on the website from Andrew in the coming days.

SPECIAL UPDATE
Time: 6.20pm, 29th May
Andrew is currently being transported by boat to Alotau for urgent medical attention. This morning at 5.30am Communications HQ (Adelaide, South Australia) received a satellite call from Andrew to explain that his condition had deteriorated overnight (the infection had spread, with the majority of his leg swollen and tender) and he was seeking assistance in arranging an evacuation. This assistance came from Chris Abel of Masurina Lodge in Alotau who very kindly chartered a boat and sent vital antibiotics and pain relief. The boat collected Andrew late this afternoon and is expected in Alotau this evening.

Due to the need for a small, rapid vessel Andrew has left his kayak in the capable hands of Jack at Isu Diudiu Village who, Andrew tells us is planning to paddle it some 120km to Alotau for him.

Thanks all round to those who have helped Andrew particularly Chris Abel, the kind locals of Isu Diudiu Village and the Australian Embassy and Foreign Affairs staff.

Location: Camp 16 150-6-00E, 10-39-30S, PNG
Time: 6.10pm, 28th May

As transcribed by Andrew for Jerry Jack.
"You paddled and came and found a lady fishing in the reef. So she told you to come up here to have a rest. After that I and my brother came and we saw you washing, so we said, 'It must be an Australian person.' Okay. We stayed and you started to squeeze your sore and blood start to bleed. It was a big boil. So after that we has to walk around the area so the pus would come out. Okay. We came, we were sitting down and the lady from the reef bring you food. After eating you come into your camp and sleep."

But I didn't get much sleep because Jerry is full of more beans than a Mexican bean factory. After a frightfully painful day my fortunes turned. From a distance I spotted a commercial fishing boat (the first since Port Moresby). I headed in to ask for a ride to the doctor at Alotau. I'd had enough and I was asking for help. As I unwrapped my knee Jack said very simply, 'It's a boil, shouldn't be wrapped up like that.' The swelling has caused a secondary injury to the back of my knee from the cutting in today. The boil itself was as Jerry described, but I taught him new words like 'disgusting, oozing, not pretty, and indescribable relief.' Thanks for all your medical input too- I feel a dill for having to ask now! A BOIL. By tomorrow I should be 100%. It's
been a wonderful day after all.

Location: Camp 15 Gadogadowa, PNG
Time: 1.30pm, 27th May

It's been 5 days since the first symptoms of the mystery knee ailment. It began as a small, yellow pus-filled lump on my left knee. After draining it and applying antibiotic cream, I thought no more of it. Next day the redness grew to 20 cent piece size and it was hot and sensitive to touch. Applied more cream and thought perhaps it was a small coral infection from snorkelling on that lovely island. It began to make walking just a little tentative. For the past three days the area of swelling and hypersensitivity has been over the entire kneecap, with progressively less tender area moving out to an area equal to both my hands spread out. The original pus-filled cyst has redeveloped with same fluid and today another one came up beside it. Am keeping them drained and clean. Putting any pressure on leg, especially walking is very painful. Knee bend is restricted to 30 hard won degrees. After finding a dead husk of a spider in cockpit (hard to tell how long it had been there), I am suspicious of spider bite. There are no other symptoms, except resting heart rate is around 75 when it is usually between 50-60. Have done sensible thing today and stayed tent bound with leg slightly raised (and reading Moby Dick). It's raining and blowing a gale which has made the decision easier. The reason for these nasty details and the odd photo is that I'd really like a medical opinion and advice on best treatment. If you're a doctor, know a doctor, have had a similar condition, or have read Moby Dick (I think it's going to be an excellent book), let me know your thoughts. Any info is welcome, nothing I try seems to help. For self treatment I have the following; bactobran ointment, fasigyn antibiotics, riamet and larium for malaria, anti-inflammatory geland tablets, bandages, panadeine (running low), antiseptic cream, strapping tape, paw-paw ointment, blistex, toothpaste, Berocca, and heaps of coconuts. I will try experimental therapy, and will gladly cut my leg off with pocket knife and scissors if you say so. Awaiting your reply. Note to parents- No cause for concern, am being well looked after by Alfred's family with sweet tea and sago biscuits.

Location: Camp 14 Gadogadowa, PNG
Time: 6.00pm, 26th May

There's a small fire burning beside my tent. Paul Asia lit it, he assures me it won't get out of control and roast me like one of the pigs in the pen. I trust him, I have no choice! Short day from Bona Bona, around Eagle point to here at Gadogadowa. Alfred's family have let me camp on the beach in front of their place. Three families share the narrow sandspit, all gardening, fishing and hunting in the hills. A strong wind came up early today and may blow for a few more. The knee is still badly swollen but the sharp pains have turned to bone deep stiffness. Might get a few kms in early tomorrow, there's a deserted island I have my eye on.

Location: Camp 13 Bona Bona Island, PNG
Time: 6.50pm, 25th May

I've spent all my coconut juice today. The plan was to find an island on the nearside of Orangerie Bay (35 km wide), pull up early and rest my knee. Whatever bit it has pumped in a dose of pure pain. Paddling is okay but walking is a struggle. First island was closed out with a wave wrapping all the way around. On the second I met a family of shark fisher people who'd just caught and chopped up four good sized ones. I wasn't in a talkative mood with a swollen knee so I bid them farewell and began across the bay after all. Calm conditions until final 5km and then very windy. The only part I enjoyed about that was the last 4 seconds when I heard the sand scraping up the hull. Exhausted and on Bona Bona Island.

Location: Camp 12 149-28-00E, 10-22-00S, PNG
Time: 5.35pm, 24th May

"I'd have to chop it down." Frank, a fraction on the tubby side, said of getting cocunuts from up high. We continued touring Loupom Is. as I explained that I too lack the skills needed to scale the coconut tree. Laughing, I loaded the water bags and set off again. Across Amazon Bay the coastline changed dramatically with the steep, forested hills plunging straight into the blue ocean. Small pockets of sand marked villages and cultivated hillsides betrayed a gardening culture. With a bung knee (not sure but might be spider bite?) and an infected blister making paddling difficult, I pulled into a beach. Dodi Manau and his family were working their extensive garden and said I could pitch the tent. We chewed sugar cane, got coconut (Dodi's son CAN climb!) and exchanged sweet potato for some of my surplus rice. The only way in or out is by boat so these people need to be incredibly self sufficient.

Location: Camp 11 149-10-30E, 10-16-00S, PNG
Time: 5.45pm, 23rd May

The rudder flipped up in preparation. Paddling hard on the back of a larger shorebreak, I came through to the inside where I caught a smaller wave. The kayak bounced sideways as I braced lightly towards shore. 'All going well so far,' I thought to myself, glancing at the large crowd gathered on the beach. "NO, NO!" I yelled in vain as a couple of kids came bounding out to greet me. It's easy to break a leg if you're on the wrong side of a loaded kayak. One little one grabbed a deck line just as the kayak overcame him. 'I've gone and killed him,' I thought as he went under. But no thank goodness, he surfaced still holding on and with a grin from ear to ear. I'm currently in a remote area which sees few visitors. I filled up my water bladders (to answer an email question- I have about 20L capacity and have filled up at villages like this one from either water tanks or ground water wells), and relaunched for a few more hours into the wind. Reckon I did close to 40km today, it's taken 11 hours. Camped now on warm black sand which should soothe the sore muscles tonight.

Location: Camp 10 148-52-30E, 10-19-30S, PNG
Time: 6.00pm, 22nd May

When I saw the flash of golden sand on this little offshore island, I turned hard right and headed straight for it. With a left hand reef break to watch from the beach, and oodles of coral for one kayaker, it's my best camp yet.

Paddled in calm conditions from 4.30am to 10.00am and the balance of the day has been snorkelling, rubbing dead skin off the soles of my feet with washed up coral and... um, that's about it actually. Tomorrow I'll head out of the protection of the reefs and into Table Bay. Many fishermen have warned me of the treacherous waves in this 40km wide bay, so I might get a surf landing. That means I'll probably tip over and lose a sponge.

Location: Camp 9 148-43-00E, 10-10-15S, PNG
Time: 6.30pm, 21th May

Besides the twittering birds the only noise is the tide slithering up the mudflat towards the small sandy beach where I'm camped. Behind is an abandoned schoolhouse on what I think is an island, but perhaps we're connected on the other side? Today was five hours of excellent paddling from 4.15am-9.15am. Then I talked to Mr Woolley on the radio and it all turned pear shaped. The wind came up and it was five further hours of hard slog. Would've camped much sooner but the dirty old mangroves didn't open up. When I stopped at a village they gave me 12 small bananas. I ate them while cursing my ill fortune at being shin deep in fine black mud. It seems I misjudged the water depth over a wide isthmus separating an island of dirty old mangroves from the much larger, and dirtier, posse on the mainland. The happy ending is that the schoolhouse has a water tank and I had a wash.

Location: Camp 8 Lalaurab Village, PNG
Time: 5.45pm, 20th May

There's enough fuel for the generator to run the lights but I'll be off to sleep soon anyway. Lalaurab village is built on dark basaltic sand and generous, welcoming people. I pulled in at lunch time as the whole village either watched or raced the outrigger canoes around the bay. It was a special memorial race as a young wife has recently died. As soon as I stepped out of the kayak and took hold of the proffered coconut I felt at home. The tent is set up under a stilted house and as I look at it now I see 10 hours of unconscious sleep- I'm knackered and have to wake at 4am again.

Try tuning in to Charles Woolley's radio show again, Wednesday at 9.17am, for a second go at a chat.

Location: Camp 7 Gavuone Village, PNG
Time: 5.30pm, 19th May

Jumped out of the tent under moonlight with bottle of mozzie repellant in hand. Liberally doused in DEET I sloshed happily through the mud and was on the water to see the glowing orange moon set. Soon after the sun rose and I steered into Moapa village for morning mango and water. A church elder led me to his home for sweet tea and coconut biscuits. Half the village came with us. The coast turned ENE so the wind came from the side as much as the front (is that forequarter mariners- or is that just for lamb chops?). Slow and steady progress throughout the day and I am at Gavuone village at the Rev. Puele's house. It's perched on the headland with spacious grassy surrounds and simply enormous mango trees towards the church. Nearly cracked 30km I
think- it took over 9 hours and I will sleep like a buried yam tonight.

And sorry if you tuned into the radio this morning, I had the phone on but didn't get the call- maybe another time.

Location: Camp 6 147-57-00E, 10-7-30S, PNG
Time: 5.30pm, 18th May

There's something rattling in the mangroves. It's coming from where I drained the tinned tuna. Looking with squinted eyes through the
mesh tent the whole ground comes alive. Crabs! Big and small, with shell and without, they're on the move. Ended up in the mangroves tonight which is never ideal but luckily there's a camp track cut through from a raised sandy platform to the mudflats. It was a day of lucky escapes actually. This morning very nearly saw me stranded on a large, rapidly draining sandy shoal. Just enough water to drag it off without unloading. Another 5am launch and another 20 ish kms before the wind came hard.

Tune in to Charles Woolley's radio show, Monday at 9.15 am, I'll be on the bat phone for a chat.

Location: Camp 5 - Hula Village, PNG
Time: 5.30pm, 17th May

Did I say a midnight start? I must've been dehydrated. Managed to be on the water before 5 and have made it to Hula village. For breakfast I stopped at a small village and was given 6 mangoes. Later in the magroves, out of the wind, I ate 3 with predictable result. Pastor Walo has taken me in at Hula. We went to look at his newly turned field for yams and tapioca, and then to say hello to the men cleaning up the shrine commemorating the arrival of the first missionary in 1876. Later we had many helping hands to retieve the kayak from the mud flats and I sat down to talk to these students about life in Hula and Port Moresby. All are hoping to get to university. There is a man in the market area yelling 'god is good' to his congregation and the kids throw sticks at mangoes far above.

Location: Camp 4 - Between Coastal Villages SE Coast, PNG
Time: 3.30pm, 16th May

Gabone village is a few kms inland but fishing is still nambawan (number one). After helping pull the net in I was given a drinking coconut. I could have taken a few fish like the other haulers but didn't want to stink up the cabin so early in the day. The owner of the net (yellow t-shirt) keeps most of the catch.

The luarabada came in earlier today and I was cooked like a mudcrab by noon. Have only progressed 70-75 kms from Port Moresby in four days! Will wake at midnight and get some easier paddling while the wind sleeps. Am camped between coastal villages on the traditional land of the Gabone people. The GPS is dead so the coordinates for the map are taken as best I can from the large scale map using my ruler and guesswork. The curses of a thousand biting insects have taken the edge off the jellyfish sting. Apparently paw-paw ointment does not cure everything.

Location: Camp 3 - Just short of Seri Point, PNG
Time: 6.00pm, 15th May
A tiny fishing canoe with canvas sail passes on the fading tradewind. Two villagers are dragging a net through the shallows up the beach, while a third shepherds the catch in with a long water whacking stick. Later they pass and offer me their catch but I've already eaten and they have a 45 minute walk back to their inland village. Wouldn't be fair to go empty handed.

Thankfully the morning saw light winds as I farewelled the extended family at 6.30. It wasn't until well beyond the stretch of mangroves, and then Gabagaba village that the laurabada (Motu for tradewind) arrived. At midday I pulled in just short of Seri Point, 3-4 kms past Gabagaba. My burnt hands and light sensitive jellyfish sting have kept me subdued under the tarp all afternoon. Here's a question- I've been swallowing instead of spitting when brushing my teeth. My thinking is that since I'm not drinking fluorinated water this will compensate. Am I harming myself?

Location: Camp 2 - Just short of Gaire, PNG
Time: 7.00pm, 14th May

Like paddling through honey, but not as sweet. I came up with that line to distract from the bludgeoning headwind. This afternoon I decided dragging the kayak along the shallows would be faster. It was, but unfortunately I was stung by a jellyfish and had to go back to sea. My right foot still feels on fire. Mid afternoon, after about 20km and just short of the village Gaire, I pulled up exhausted. Tom and his son Tau had come in from fishing and invited me to camp here. We ate tapioca and fish and talked all afternoon. Better progress today but I'll have to make the most of the mornings, the arvos are pure torment. I have nine blisters and sunburnt hands, but I'll toughen up!

Location: Camp 1 - island south east of Port Moresby, PNG
Time: 6.00pm, 13th May
Aching shoulders, fresh blisters and a relieved smile can only mean one thing, we're off and away. The brutal south east trade wind, woeful muscle tone, and shallow reefs have limited progress to about 10 kms. That's my best guess using the 1:2000000 map anyway. The GPS is not working. Any suggestions why a Magellan 310 (been around a long while) would be picking up satellites but not spitting out the coordinates are welcome. You can find me by heading south east from Port Moresby inside the reef, until reaching a headland that marks a deep north-east trending embayment a few kms wide. From the headland I paddled through the protecting reef and crossed to the smaller of two near islands. Google Earth it if you dare!

Surprisingly I am not alone. Joe and his two pastors were dropped off by boat for three days of fasting and praying. Saw many delightful creatures today including a jumping sting-ray and a few small sharks.

Thanks for the messages regarding the change of plan- you're all invited for the Fly River Odyssey Part 2: Deliverance, date yet to be announced! Good night from this happy camper.

Location: Port Moresby, PNG
Time: 2.00pm, 12th May

Change of plans! At 1am on Friday I was restlessly looking at the maps and feeling uneasy with the days events. Since learning of the fatal shipping mistake I'd been changing my mind on what to do, minute by minute. First it was to immediately get to Port Moresby and take possession of the kayak. Then I thought I could be patient and wait it out in Kiunga. But at 1am, and without being sure, I committed myself to getting a plane back to Port Moresby. I think it was the uncertainty of waiting that tipped the scales, I just had to get on the water. So on Saturday morning I rang the airline to book a seat. Their entire fleet had been grounded for an unexpected safety check. It was looking unhappily like a Tuesday flight until a special plane was dispatched (not for me) on Sunday that I was able to board. We went to Tabubil first, which is the town built largely for the Ok Tedi mine. The river looks a mess. Then down to Daru and finally into Port Moresby.

I'm in a little hotel at the moment, surrounded by gear and watching ABC TV. This morning I had the kayak delivered to the yacht club, where I will depart tomorrow. Yep, I actually touched the orange plastic tub with my own hands- and it felt good. The south east trade wind has kicked in well and truly, so progess to Alotau will be slow. A lot has changed in two short weeks, kayaking the Fly River and Gulf of Papua will be an adventure for another time.

Location: Kiunga, PNG
Time: 6.15pm, 9th May
"No kayak there." Pius had walked from the wharf to inform me of the startling, even shocking, news. I went down to see for myself, but nothing could change the first simple statement, no kayak had come off the Kuder. A few phone calls confirmed that it was mistakenly left dockside in Port Moresby. Words failed me. With 10-14 days before the next shipment is due my immediate thought was to fly back to Port Moresby and begin paddling from there. Time, expense and visa issues with a further 2 week delay are formidable, but, after careful thought, not overwhelming. I'm nearly out of battery and no recharge gear until kayak arrives. Will let you know by email if you're on the list. My apologies for the delay. Papua New Guinea - land of the unexpected.

Location: Kiunga, PNG
Time: 7.30pm, 8th May
No progress with unloading the Kuder today as it bucketed down ALL day. Earliest departure Saturday morning. Going a little stir crazy! Have been thinking about emergency sleep-in-kayak procedure in case the entire Western Province has turned into an inland sea!

Location: Kiunga, PNG
Time: 5.00pm, 7th May

Everyone recognises me at the wharf. I go down twice a day to see how the unloading is going. Walking down the muddy road beside the swollen river, there is the same feeling of anticipation each time. My pace quickens nearing the freight yard as I scan, hopelessly as it turns out, for the orange flash of plastic kayak. The latest delay is due to a broken down truck moving containers. Wandering back to the guest house in a contemplative sweat I book another night. Maybe on Friday morning I can embark down the flooded Fly. Maybe it's better to be delayed!

Location: Kiunga, PNG
Time: 7.00pm, 6th May

When I left Australia a week ago I'd say I was revving at about 2000 rpm's in third gear - not particularly high. By the time I hit Kiunga the lack of sleep meant, after a 15 minute novelty induced hyperdrive, that I dropped back to a comfortable second. Today I'm in neutral. The Kuda is docked and unloading, but has been delayed by rain. My kayak is somewhere in the belly of the beast and won't emerge until lunchtime tomorrow. On Thursday I will depart... or maybe I won't, who really knows? But I don't mind. Kiunga is friendly, I have had a chance to acclimatise a little, every day I meet new people, and there are many days of paddling ahead. Compared to what I see on the news, life is very good.

Location: Kiunga, PNG
Time: 5.00pm, 5th May

Pius Kutmop is a security guard at the Kiunga wharf. As well as owning some rubber trees and advising me on puk-puk (crocodile) behaviour, he's also handy with a bush knife. This is the one I bought today. Pius reminded me to take care with it or I'll go home as the one-legged kayaker from Tasmania.

In a further sign that life is unpredictable the kayak was not unloaded today. The carrying ship, the Kuda, is moored mid river waiting for the Ok Tedi fuel ship to fully disgorge and make room at the wharf. Maybe tomorrow... but I won't be betting my bush knife on it.

Location: Kiunga, PNG
Time: 5.00pm, 4th May

"What about leeches Samuel... and ticks, many ticks in the jungle?" We drove 17km north of Kiunga and walked a few hundred metres to watch the incredible Greater Bird of Paradise displaying. Through Samuel's telescope the exuberantly feathered males could be clearly seen on the bare branches of select tall trees. Samuel has taken the likes of David Attenborough to see these birds, it is a world class birdo paradise.

Being a Sunday and with many churches in town it is noticeably quieter on the streets. I wandered down to the wharf hoping to see the kayak. Alas, not due until midnight, hopefully to be unloaded by morning and... deep breath... might be on the river tomorrow! The store sells excellent hard biskets (biscuits) in four packs which will be perfect for snacking on while paddling. I'm also buying a bush knife for clearing vegetation. After seeing the jungle this morning, I think I'll need it.

Location: Kiunga, PNG
Time: 4.30pm, 3rd May

Willie and family (pictured) have just moved from Goroka to Kiunga, where Willie will work at Bank South Pacific. We were all on the same flight from Port Moresby and have become wantoks (friends). Down at the market I became familiar with some of the fresh foods I'll be eating as I travel. Sago, taro, peanuts, fish, bananas and much that I can't yet name. Willie has been teaching me a little Tok Pisin, but I'm proving to be a slow learner!Fingers crossed the kayak arrives tomorrow, waiting has never been a strong point!

Thanks for the messages, Bec my coordinator in Oz passes them on in the daily email and they are wonderful to read. I wish I could reply properly but am limited with power and satellite charges. Keep them coming though, and be sure to use the forum for leaving messages, info, and school related stuff. Bird watching tomorrow so having an early night.

Location: Kiunga, PNG
Time: 5.30pm, 2nd May

Samuel Kepuknai is a local bird specialist, and Kiunga is famous for birds. Tomorrow morning or Sunday we'll go looking for a Bird of Paradise and maybe even get on the river for a closer look. We talked about conditions down stream, and it seems a real issue will be finding dry camps. The river is high, but I think it will make sense when I'm out there. Certainly getting itchy to get out there now that I'm so close. And my apologies to the interviewer from ABC News Radio this morning. I was standing by the road in front of the guest house in the rain. When the phone dropped out unexpectedly (getting good signal here) I took the opportunity to dash back inside. So much water!

Location: Kiunga, PNG
Time: 5.30pm, 1st May

Bought supplies- 6kg rice, 14 tins tuna, flour, salt, sugar, crisp biscuits and curry powder. All bags sorted through and packed. Only 1 thing missing, the kayak! Delayed departure from Port Moresby means will arrive Sunday evening or Monday. Patrick Patu from NBC (PNG radio) tracked me down for an interview, but otherwise a quiet day checking out Kiunga (walking slowly) and sleeping. The ladies by the road selling betel nuts twisted my arm. The nut is chewed with lime and mustard and the excess saliva (plenty of it), spat out. I didn't get the spitting bit worked out and may have a stomach ache!

Location: Kiunga, PNG
Time: 5.30pm, 30th April

There's a lot of water on the floodplains! Smooth transitions through many airports and haven't slept a wink. Met at Port Morseby by Jim from Tourism PNG and reporters from the two daily papers. Delayed flight to Kiunga so not in until an hour ago. Flying over the Fly... oh, my, goodness! Will buy food in the morning and Peter from the guesthouse is going to help locate the kayak. Might not be organised enough to get wet tomorrow but will try. Feeling comfortable and completely overwhelmed at same time. Friendly smiles go a long way.

Location: Ulverstone, Tasmania
Time: 11.00am, 29th April
Departing 6.30pm this evening from Burnie airport. Arriving in Kiunga 1.30pm tomorrow after a series of loosely connecting flights up the east coast of Australia and over to PNG. Expect to be sleep deprived and sweating when I step off the plane. Will try to get a report out tomorrow evening but may have fallen into a stupor. Haven't had confirmation that the kayak has arrived yet.