June Reports

30 June 2009- beside the road in the Pilbara
Distance: 78 km
Words of the day: Yellow, blue, red (where did you see these colours today?)
I was waiting for some hot chips at the Pardoo Roadhouse when some familiar faces came and said hello. It was Fanny and Mark (that's not how it's really spelt but I've forgotten the French version), who I first met at the Pentecost River on the Gibb River Road. They were part of the trio who rode in the opposite direction with really cheap and nasty bikes! They had made it safely to Kununurra and were now driving around the country. Look out because they're coming to Tasmania later in the year. After that I struggled to find a good rhythm and found myself snoozing under a wattle tree just down the road. Looking up at the bright yellow blossoms against the blue sky I decided to take- Stop Press: A little red bug just landed on my shirt. It looks exactly like the red pebbles that cover much of the ground here. Delightful. Anyway, I decided to take it easy tomorrow and reach Port Hedland early on Thursday. With no pressure to cover big kilometers it was almost a relaxing afternoon with an easing headwind.

29 June 2009- Great Northern Highway roadside
Distance: 83 km
Word of the day: Pleasant (Make two words from these letters- one is an insect and one a tasty green vegetable.)
There's no way to sugar coat it, today was a struggle. Right from the beginning the wind was square in my sunglasses and blowing hard. Luckily the roadside was lined with at least three types of yellow blossoming shrubs, which were pleasant to look at as I turned my head to the side. Unluckily they weren't high or thick enough to stop, deflect, or be any other sort of help with the despicable wind. Just before lunch I turned on the radio to get the weather report and heard an interview on ABC with a sea kayaker from Germany who is paddling right around Australia. Freya Hoffmeister left Melbourne, or nearby, earlier in the year and made to Broome on the weekend. I decided I had it easy compared to paddling into this wind and continued to look at the yellow flowers. Just as I was ready to call it a day the bushes ran out and there was nowhere decent to camp. Knee high scrub in all directions, oh-no! Then I spied a series of shallow ponds below road level and have found a tent site. The passing trucks can see me but at least I was able to have a good wash. Hopefully the wind eases up tomorrow.

28 June 2009- between Sandfire and Pardoo
Distance: 86 km
Word of the day: Trio (Is there a word to describe a group of 4 people?)
This trio of travellers come from France and Wales. There's two Martin's and a Shaun here if my memory is correct. It was lunchtime at the Sandfire Roadhouse and I'd just patched a leaking tyre and filled up my water containers. One of the Martin's offered me a cup of coffee just as I was ready to leave. With the afternoon sea breeze picking up I decided to stay a little longer. The roadhouse itself burnt down 2 years ago and they're nearly ready to start rebuilding. Even without the roadhouse there hasn't been a day in more than forty years that motorists haven't been able to fill their tank. With Broome 300 km north and Pardoo 140 km south, Sandfire is an important outpost on the edge of the desert.
The slow progress into the wind is just beginning to test my patience. In the morning, and full of oats and sultanas, its alright. But by late afternoon, with the sun getting in my eyes and flies crawling up my nose... not so much fun. Instead of aiming for over 100 km I've adjusted the daily target to be happy with anything over 80.

27 June 2009- north of Sandfire Roadhouse
Distance: 101 km
Word of the day: Circumference (use these letters to make a word that describes what keeps cows inside paddocks.)
This thing that looks like a giant, melting mud flavoured icecream is actually a termite mound. The other thing in the background is my tent. The mound is about 2 meters tall but the real bulk is in the circumference. I estimate it to be 10 meters around the base. Parts are hollowed out underneath and you can see where animals (looks like wallaby droppings, and probably lizards) come and go to get shelter. The riding today was slow thanks to a breezy cross/head wind. The slight rises and falls had to be pedalled up and down with the same energy, no free rides unfortunately. I have to ration the last of the water to get through dinner, breakfast, and 60 km of riding tomorrow. To save a little bit I tried washing with sand. I rubbed my arms, legs and chest with the beautiful red desert sand until the sticky sweat feeling was gone. I looked really grubby then so used a little water to wash it off. This was a bad idea because then I was covered in a fine layer of watery mud, which meant I ended up using even more water to finally get clean. Ah well, now I know better!

26 June 2009- Edge of the Great Sandy Desert (burnt bush camp)
Distance: 100 km
Word of the day: Burnt (Is burnt toast bad for your health, or does it just taste bad?)
The little orange radio is broadcasting the game between Essendon and Carlton tonight so I'm happy. It used to have a plastic crank handle that generated power so I never had to buy batteries. A few months ago I wound it once too often and it snapped off. Now I use rechargeable AAA batteries to make sure I don't miss a minute after the centre bounce. Reception here between Broome and Sandfire Roadhouse is excellent. The scenery from when I packed up the tent this morning, to when I set it back up again half an hour ago hasn't changed much. The red sand of the desert doesn't grow towering trees like you'd see in Tasmanian forests. The biggest would be only 5 meters high, and most are shrubs only a few high. Where I have camped a fire has recently swept through. All around me are black sticks of dead (or are they?) bushes and clumps of brown leaves. Its good for camping because the ground is clear and I'll be able to make a neat little fire to warm some water. Speaking of which, the sun has just set so I'd better go.

25 June 2009- Great Northern Hwy bush camp
Distance: 101 km
Word of the day: Halfway (What is it called when two words are shoved together like this?)
The highway skirts around the edge of the Great Sandy Desert. The little creeks and big rivers across the Kimberley and further back in the Gulf won't be found south of here. That means carrying more water. Here you can see all 20 litres I carry when full. It is enough for 3 days and 3 nights, and that will get me to Sandfire Roadhouse for a refill.
When I turned south from the Roebuck Roadhouse at lunchtime I turned a huge corner. I reckon it marked the halfway point of the whole journey. I've been pedalling away from Tasmania for over 100 days and from now on, in my head anyway, I've started to ride back home.
Check out work by students on the Learning ZONE

24 June 2009- bush camp between Derby and Broome
Distance: 109 km
Word of the day: Limped (What can you do when you find injured wildlife in your town or city?)
The bird squatted on the road. Even as I came hurtling up on my bike it didn't fly away. I knew it was in trouble. Somehow it gathered enough strength to limp onto the verge. I hopped off the bike to see if I could help, but what could I really do? These brown kites often fly low across the road and look around for roadkill and little lizards to snatch. They are usually agile enough to avoid the traffic but this fella must have been caught in a wind gust, or maybe he was too busy zooming in on the meat to see the danger. Later in the morning two riders came from the other direction. Paul and Matt had been riding together from Broome, but Matt (or was it Paul) had come all the way from Port Macquarie, down to Tasmania (did anyone see him I wonder), and along the bottom of Oz to Perth etc. He was raising money for the Cancer Council I think, check out www.everydayhero.com.au/eajoa for more goss. Happy with getting over 100 k's for the day, that's the first big one for a while and I'm going to sleep well tonight!

23 June 2009- Derby
Distance: 32 km
Word of the day: Tree (Can you identify 3 trees that you see every day? )
Marshall was in the secondhand shop in Derby when I walked in to buy a shirt and some socks. He was selling a carved boab nut and picking up a new one (pictured) to start work on. The boab must be one of the most wonderful trees on Earth. The root of the young plants can be eaten raw, the nuts are highly nutritious, AND they are used for atrwork. But best of all, they all have a character of their own and are never boring to look at. That's a special tree by anyones measure.
Today I rode the short distance into town and booked in at the caravan park. I took the chance to do the usual town jobs- supplies, phone family and friends, shower and wash clothes. This evening I rode out to the jetty to watch sunset. The tidal range (height between low and high tide) can be up to 12 meters here which is the second highest of anywhere in the world. Can you find out where the highest tidal ranges are found? Anyway the sun went down and it was all very nice until the sandflies came out and ATE ME TO WITHIN AN INCH OF MY LIFE. Back to the tent I pedalled and I'm not coming out until sunrise.

22 June 2009- 30 km short of Derby
Distance: 92 km
Word of the day: Carnage (Using some of these letters make a word that means angry.)
Remember this guy? It's our old friend the Black Headed Python. Unfortunately a car, or maybe an angry cow, squashed it. Its one of the only down sides to riding a bike- you see all the carnage on the road. But it reminded me that there hasn't been much road kill along the Gibb, only a couple of wallabies and cows. There has also been virtually no roadside litter. All the drink bottles and chip packets that usually dot the verge must have been kept inside vehicles where they belong. Vast and mostly flat floodplains meant I lost track of time today. At lunchtime I found a huge boab and spread my coat out. One of the lower branches has dropped to the ground and formed a staircase. From the top branches I could see hundreds of other boabs sticking up with bare branches all over the plains. Had two punctures in the trailer tyre so didn't make it to Derby. Will do newslwetter and check the forum tomorrow night- looking forward to it!

21 June 2009- Lennard River
Distance: 70 km
Word of the day: Shirt (Does this rhyme with yoghurt?)
My friend Russel loves insects, I wonder if he would love this scorpion? Or is it really a scorpion or something that is pretending to be one? The little barb on the tail looked real enough but who can tell with these tricky insects. It was under the tent this morning when I fished it out with the chain cleaning toothbrush. Each morning I have to clean the dust off moving parts of the bike to prevent wear and tear. I was going to go further today so I could reach Derby tomorrow night, but when I reached Lennard River I had a flat tyre and it looked too good to miss a swim. There is also a caravan set up here with a generator and a bloke that sells cold drinks and ice creams. He isn't a huge fan of cyclists because he thinks we're unprepared for the conditions and he, or some other local, will have to save us when we break down. I'm not sure if any cyclists have actually needed his assistance or he just fears the worst from/for us? Mind you he has a point because when I went swimming I washed my shirt and hung it on a log over the river. When I came back it had fallen in the water and disappeared! I'm not too disappointed because earlier I had ripped a hole in the back climbing through a barbed wire fence and it was just about worn out from sun damage.

20 June 2009- past the King Leopold Ranges
Distance: 74 km
Word of the day: Ripple (Does anyone know what the ripple effect is?)
There was a good chance of crashing today. I spent way too long looking over my shoulder at the King Leoplold Ranges! Before I climbed over them I stopped at the Imintji Community Store. It had the neatest stacked shelves full of everything imaginable. I bought two more tins of fruit, a sausage roll, apple pie, coffee, choc ripple biscuits and two icy pole sticks (only 60 cents each- bargain). Then into the ranges I rode, the foothills turned into mountains and the dirt road was briefly sealed (up the steep hills they often seal the road to slow the washouts). The red sandstone was piled high and twisted into gentle folds. In the valleys there were palms, pandanus, boabs, white gums and patches of soft green grass. Soon I emerged out the other side and began looking for camp. I followed a sneaky dirt road on the side of a trickling creek and found a clearing with a fallen down shed in the middle. The creek has pooled to form a waterhole about head deep and clear. I washed my socks and shirt before diving in. The Bombers won last night so I knew today would be a good one.

19 June 2009- somewhere on the Gibb
Distance: 70 km
Word of the day: Botanist (Does a botanist know a lot about animals, plants or boats?)
Melissa and Josh are driving along the Gibb River Road, jumping out every kilometer, looking at plants, making notes in their black notebooks and so on. They are botanists and their job is to see if there are any rare or endangered plants near the road. Earlier in the morning I had taken a lovely photo of a red flowering tree. I whipped out the camera, excited that I'd found these two botanists, and found out what it was called. Currajong, but we're not sure which of the three varieties it was.
Later I was passed by La Ki (see yesterdays post) with two happier looking fishermen. The only axle they could get in Derby is about as thick as my little finger, so they were only going marginally faster than me! At the Barnett Roadhouse I grabbed a few tins of pineapple and a burger before continuing to Galvans Gorge for a swim. As I was climbing out I stared straight at a monitor sunning on a rock. It dived into the pool, which is what I'd do if someone was staring at me while sunning on a rock and minding my own business.

18 June 2009- Barnett River Gorge
Distance: 62 km
Word of the day: Breakfast (we break our evening fast when we have breakfast!)
First thing this morning I was singing a song called 'I need a cushion to sit on' as I prepared the fire for breakfast. In the corner of my eye I saw a flash of movement and stopped mid chorus. A bicycle had passed on the road 50 metres away and I just caught a glimpse of the flag before it disappeared behind the trees. It was going the opposite way to me so I'd never get their story. On the road I followed the tyre tracks and discovered there were two bikes. Then I met Mike and his boat, the 'La Ki'. With a bent axle and the trailer propped up on tyres we decided it was more like the 'Un La Ki'. His mate had gone back to Derby for spare parts so my offer to tow the boat out was gratefully declined. My map showed a camping sign at Barnett River Gorge so I turned off after a slow 60 km. Halfway down the 3 km track another sign said 'Day Use Only'. Unfortunately I didn't have enough time or water to continue to the roadhouse 30 km away so I have had to disobey the rules and have camped in the gorge. Although this is naughty I am pleased with the result because it is ABSOLUTELY GORGE-EOUS!

17 June 2009- Gibb River Rd bush camp 4
Distance: 90 km
Word of the day: Switzerland (Which countries border Switzerland?)
David and his two friends are all from Switzerland. This is their fourth journey to Australia to explore the outback on their motorbikes. They started in Perth three months ago and have travelled the bumpy way through central Australia, up to Cape York and now around the top back to Perth. For a moment I dreamed of dropping my bike, snatching one of theirs and disappearing in a trail of dust. But instead I dropped down a gear and continued along the road chewing a cashew nut. The scenery today was gentle with low hills and grassy woodland. The road had a few very bad patches of sand but overall was just bumpy. I held off filling my water bottles until the end of the day and crossed my fingers that the last creek marked on the map was flowing. It was and I'm clean and camped in a grove of paperbarks. It looks like pigs have been around here lying in the nearby mud pools which have recently dried up. Battery is low so I'd better be off.

16 June 2009- Gibb River Rd bush camp 3
Distance: 86 km
Word of the day: Puree (Make up a recipe that includes fruit puree, use mango if you can- yum.)
A car pulled up this morning and handed me a banana. What a stroke of good luck, any extra food is happily accepted. An hour later, after many bumps and flies up my nose, I decided to eat that banana. As I peeled back the skin my hopes sank. It was all squashed and bruised dark brown. I don't know if I was responsible or it was already in a bad way when it was handed over. Surely not? Would someone give me a banana if they knew it was a pulpy puree?
Made good distance today, especially this morning when the road was a little better. Filled up with water at the Durack River and have camped just past Ellenbrae Station on a small creek. The temperature is dropping quickly now that the sun has gone down but during the day it reached about 30 degrees. The hours between 12-2 pm were the worst and I had a very long lunch under a shady tree.

15 June 2009- Gibb River Rd bush camp 2
Distance: 62 km
Word of the day: Ember (sometimes embers are amber in colour...)
Rolling down the hill towards the Pentecost River crossing a strange scene confronted me. There were three army jeeps, one ambulance car, and three bikes with gear thrown about everywhere. Puzzled, and slightly concerned, I went towards the small group of people that had formed beside the road. The three cyclists had just had their bags driven over the river by the man in the ambulance car (who was on holiday, not business), and the army jeeps had just pulled up and were about to cross. I was hoping for a more exciting story than that, possibly involving crocodiles, but oh well!
The three cyclists were from France and Belgium and have come from Derby 17 days ago. They take turns riding with this baby carrier (photo) while the other two bikes carry normal panniers. Normally I would not have given this rig a chance to survive the rough dirt road, but there it is. Two of the bikes are very cheap ($170) K-mart jobs and they haven't had a single puncture or broken spoke. Meanwhile I had another puncture and a busted tyre today. It doesn't seem fair.
After walking across the river I continued bouncing along until the sun dropped low in the sky. From here I can just see back to the distant Cockburn Range. It's glowing like a red ember from the fire I just lit, which reminds me that I have to eat some pasta.

14 June 2009- Gibb River Rd bush camp 1
Distance: 79 km
Word of the day: Nutritious (isn't it funny that it rhymes with delicious)
The fruit of the boab tree (photo) looks like a furry lemon with a hard shell. At the Kununurra Market a lady was selling boab food products at a stall. I found out the root of young plants is especially nutritious, and the fruit, after it has fallen, is also edible. I cracked one open this afternoon and had a nibble. The inside is dry with a solid powdery texture and has a tangy taste.
This morning I farewelled the YTBC on the bus back to Darwin and Tasmania. Riding out of town it took a few hours to get used to talking to myself again. I'd become used to getting a reply! After 53 km I turned off the sealed road onto the Gibb River Road. The graders have been busy and the surface was firm gravel with patches of moderate corrugation. One of the things I've noticed is the number of cars on this road compared to the gulf road earlier in the season. The clouds of dust I will have to eat over the next 8-9 days will be many and thick- eeuck. Tonights camp has a huge view of the Cockburn (pronouned Co-burn) Range. Later I will read my new book on the geology of the Kimberleys and know what I am admiring in the fading light.

13 June 2009- Kununurra R&R
Word of the day: Volunteer (Can you think of a local organisation that needs your help as a volunteer?)
The Kimberley Toad Busters (KTB) are a volunteer group based here in Kununurra to slow the creeping wave of cane toads coming in from the Northern Territory. Just a few days ago the YTBC noticed an unusually high number of living and squashed toadies at Timber Creek. This is just behind the leading edge of the feral frog-march. This morning at the Kununurra Market we met 'Tim the Toad Buster' manning the information stall. He told us how the volunteers jump in a bus at 4pm and head east to get amongst the action. While it was disturbing to hear the devastating effects of the hungry toads, it was inspiring to see the community doing something about it. Although Tim said it will be impossible to completely halt their progress, they hope to stem the flow until researchers and scientists can come up with new ways to control them. I was also surprised to hear that toads are only a few hundred kilometers north of Sydney, with only a dislike of cold weather slowing them down.
In Central America, where they are native, the cane toad is in decline in the wild due to habitat changes. I think we can spare a few if things get desperate! We were very tempted to join the bus this afternoon but there were a few jobs to be done that couldn't be delayed. The YTBC is taking her bike apart and I'm filling the food bag for a week or more along the Gibb River Road. As usual I'm getting mixed reports from others on road conditions. I'm expecting anything from smooth as silk to rough as guts. Departure from Kununurra is tomorrow morning for both of us, only we'll be going in opposite directions.
Kimberley Toad Busters website >>

12 June 2009- Kununurra
Distance: 49 km
Word of the day: Quarantine (Does it rhyme with 'sore spleen' or 'radiata pine'?)
With a nearly full moon high in the sky I stirred in the early hours of this morning to a choir of howls. A pack of dingoes sang out into the cool air, perhaps regrouping after their evening activities. Quite a comforting chorus I thought to myself, thinking the noise was somewhat similar to that which my dog makes at home!

After a quick stop at the boarder of NT and WA to guzzle down our last two oranges (WA has strict rules about what you can take over their side of Australia - they don't like fresh fruit, honey products, seeds and have a particular dislike of cane toads!!), we passed through quarantine and made our way smoothly into the open arms of the Kimberly, WA. 41 kilometers later we had arrived in Kununurra - marking the end of my cycling leg with Andrew, and a much needed restocking stop for him before embarking on the Gibb River Road.

We'll stay here until Sunday, getting jobs done and catching some of the local highlights until I grab the bus at 9.15am WA time back to Darwin. I'll have to change my watch 3 times over the next 5 days to keep up with different times between WA, NT and TAS - better get it right or I might miss my bus and my plane!!

Guest blogger, sqwarking away....

:o) The Yellow Tailed Black Cockatoo!!

11 June 2009- bush camp Victoria Hwy
Distance: 83 km
Word of the Day: Spinifex (has this got anything to do with crazy turns? Or not??)
Ten kilometers into our 100 kilometer leg, the hills that we had spied over the last two days were upon us. Beautiful towers of red rock, softened with patches of green trees and grass (and the odd Boab Tree) stood tall at our side. Looking closely at this mountain of rock we could make out darker patches towards the top. 'Caves?' Andrew asked out loud. The peddles began to slow as we both tuned our eyes, squinting with the glare of the sun. 'Hmmmmm maybe' I replied to which he responded 'I wonder if thats the tunnel tunnel Steve was talking about?'. We had met Steve two days earlier walking his way along the highway east of Timber Creek. Steve spoke of a tunnel that made its way passing straight through the side of a mountain. I had a feeling where this pondering question would lead.... and I was right. 'Do you want to go check it out?' Andrew said with that adventurous seeking spark in his eyes. Thirty minutes later, with legs on fire from spiky spinifex, and grass seeds in our socks (ouch!!) we scrambled up the ledge and to the mouth of the cave. Dark and deep, it could have gone on forever - whether or not right through to the other side would be a question for another day!! With kilometers against us, it was a big push this afternoon, falling slightly short of our 100 kilometer target, we managed to finish off another adventurous day before the sun went down. Only just under 50 kilometers to Kununurra - which means we'll be in Western Australia for lunch tomorrow!!
Sqwarking off, :o) Yellow Tailed Black Cockatoo!

10 June 2009- bush camp past Timber Creek
Distance: 93 km
Word of the Day: Khaki (Which word rhymes with this and is good to eat for a special treat?)
This green tree frog found a home under the tent last night. Better than my shoe I suppose, but still not the safest hidey-hole. Leaving Timber Creek we re-entered the Gregory National Park. Augustus Gregory and a bunch of good friends (at least they were by the time they got home I suspect) came sailing into the Victoria River in the mid 19th century to do some exploring. I don't know much of the story but they pottered around the rivers for a while before galloping back to Brisbane overland. Our slightly less ambitious challenge for the day was to ride about 100 km towards Kununurra. Along the way we had a look at the massive Victoria River where the bridge crosses to the Bradshaw military training area. By chance there was a guy in khaki heading in with a motorbike. He explained that other countries like to send soldiers here for exercises because the climate and terrain has similarities with Afghanistan. Bet they don't have crocodiles over there though. There were also many more boab trees to stop and admire and even a whip snake to watch crossing the road. We have camped next to the West Baines River. A 4WD pulled up looking for water and got the shock of its life when it discovered us camped quietly under the trees. We might reach the enormous state of Western Australia tomorrow.

9 June 2009- Timber Creek
Distance: 91 km
Word of the Day: Shard (Which letter can be changed to describe another quality of glass?)
The boab tree (photo) of northern Australia is sometimes called the 'upside down' tree. They look like they've been pulled out by the branches and shoved back into the ground with roots poking skyward. The YTBC loves them and we stopped every time we passed one (which was only a few times) to get a closer look. The red sandstone escarpments out of Victoria River were stunning with the morning sun as we rode through sections of roadwork where they have raised four bridges. In the rainy season the road won't be closed as much. The Gregory and Victoria rivers have cut through the sedimentary rock to create the gorges and cliffs in this area and it's simply magnificent. We continued into drier country with fewer hills before reaching Timber Creek to camp. I had a puncture today from a small shard of glass. I thought that was unusual because all the other holes have been from burrs. Now there's just enough time to write the email newsletter before a big dinner and bed. If you're not receiving the weekly email news nows a good time to sign up at the bottom of the page. This week's will be be about a man called Steve that we met on the road today.

8 June 2009- Victoria River
Distance: 84 km
Word of the Day: Cotton balls - Can you think of a better simile for the gums?
With wobbling handlebars and a Yellow Tailed Black Cockatoo trying to distract me in the background this photos is my best effort at an action shot. The distant toot-toot of an approaching caravan reminded the YTBC to return to relative safety of the solid white line edging the highway. Almost all the traffic since Katherine have been tourists. A few cattle trucks and sprinkle of farm 4WD's make up the balance. The sandstone topped hills became more closely packed as the day wound west toward Victoria River. Dramatic red and yellow cliffs have formed around the very highest points before falling away to even hillsides with green leaved gums dotted like (green) cotton balls down their slopes. The road dipped and rose and twisted, causing us to pedal hard for the first time in weeks. At lunch we found a clear pool of water and couldn't resist a refreshing swim. Here at Victoria River there is no phone reception so the email newsletter will come out tomorrow.

7 June 2009- paddock camp, Victoria Hwy
Distance: 79 km
Word of the Day: Barbed (How many animals are barbed??)
The barbed wire fence will keep the passing caravans at a safe distance tonight. We are in an almighty big cattle paddock that looks more like wild bush. A herd of brahman are circling lazily nearby and the red dust sticks to our feet after the evening wash. The moon, full and bright behind a thin veil of evening cloud, has seen the light southerly breeze die away completely. The heat that collected in the pebbly ground with the harsh midday sun now radiates through my thighs as we sit eating dinner (pasta, paremsan and tuna... again!). The land has changed to include low hills with flat tops and rocky escarpments. Tomorrow we'll head to Victoria River.

6 June 2009- bush camp west of Katherine
Distance: 32 km
Word of the Day: Nutrition (Can it be chance that the NUT is the beginning of this wholesome word?)
Xavier loves fruit and veges. Banana, watermelon, grapefruit, lettuce, sweet potato, paw paw and dozens of other good foods go into his goblet every day. Not only does he care about the nutrition of the food but where it comes from, how it's grown and how it arrives in his hungry hands. His backyard in Darwin is being turned into a garden of tasty treats. We lingered in Katherine for the morning to eat lunch in the park before departing. The YTBC found two containers to strap to the rear racks for extra water carrying capacity. I don't need them quite yet but further along they will give me enough water (along with existing bags and bottles) to survive up to 4 days between refills. We strapped them on and tested them out for the 30 km ride west of Katherine this afternoon.
We have camped above the King River and went looking for signs of crocodiles after dinner. No luck, but I bet there's a few in there somewhere.

5 June 2009- outside Katherine
Distance: 30 km
Word of the Day: Roast (Which word rhymes with roast and is best eaten with raspberry jam?)
There wasn't much riding planned for today. Out of the national park and closer to Katherine we found the same two camels on the paddock fence waiting to say good morning. The bigger one (photo) tried to eat my helmet and sniffed around bike looking for interesting tidbits. When he yawned I had to step back from the gruesome sight of cracked old teeth and sticky white saliva. At the very least, a camel bite would make most people faint from shock!
Then we continued to Katherine to wait for our friend Xavier to come off the bus from Darwin. We are spending the night at his friends place on the outskirts of Katherine. Xavier has brought down a bagful of sweet potato and we're going to roast them on the fire. I also had to get a few spare parts for the bike. Unfortunately I couldn't find a stand to replace the one broken last week, and there were no tubes in the right size. I'll get some sent to Kununurra so I'm prepared for the next dirt section along the Gibb River Road. By a lucky chance we were waiting outside the Vinnies store when a friendly couple came along and stopped for a chat. They knew a lot about bike maintenance and I took the chance to have the bike looked over. The chain and cogs are wearing down but with good management they will probably get me right to the end. Fingers crossed, touch wood, and a pinch off salt over the shoulder as usual...

4 June 2009- Nitmiluk National Park
Distance: 45 km
Word of the Day: Perimeter (What ancient ye olde word does the peri part of perimeter come from?)
From the air force base we were guided by Lisa onto the bike track that runs along the perimeter fence to the old Stuart Highway and into Katherine. It was only about 15 km into town but it was wonderful not to be looking in the rear view mirror for approaching traffic. In Katherine we bought a few supplies and headed east towards Nimiluk (Katherine Gorge) National Park. The change of direction meant we ploughed straight into a headwind. It was a reminder that going against nature can be hard work. Luckily it's only 29 km to the gorge. We had a break on the way to talk to two camels in a yard beside the road. I think their grunts meant that they'd like to come with us and they would even carry our bags. Or maybe they were just hocking up a big spit ball?
We only had enough energy to make it to the first lookout and back down for a cool swim. It would be a great place to come back to and do some longer walks down the river.

3 June 2009- RAAF Base Tindal
Distance: 97 km
Word of the Day: Bat (How many other three letter words end with ...AT?)
The YTBC has friends (Hamish and Lisa) who live at RAAF Base Tindal, which is about 15 km south of Katherine. Hamish is a pharmacist at the air force base here, and we have come to stay the night. I didn't see any fighter jets or blackhawk helicopters on the ride into the residential area, but there were about a million fruit bats. Yep, a million would be about right. Screeching, pooing, flying, and hanging upside down in trees. It must be the fruit bat capital of Australia. Lisa and Hamish said they like the types of tree, amount of water and food and streetlights that are abundant here.
The riding today was warm to hot. The highlight on the road would have been the four mining trucks being carried by semi trailers. They were too wide for one lane so they needed an escort vehicle to clear the road ahead. We pulled off as far as we could before tumbling into the ditch and watched the huge wheels fly past only metres from our faces. Whenever a road train (3 trailers) is coming from behind we pull over anyway. Better to be slow and safe than fast and flat! Heading into the Katherine Gorge tomorrow.

2 June 2009- Mataranka Hot Springs R&R
Word of the Day: Aquifer (How can you tell that this word has something to do with water, even if you don't know exactly what it is?)
We left the tent set up and went for a short ride to Bitter Springs (photo). The water comes to the surface from a limestone aquifer at 33 degrees. That's about the temperature of a bath after you've sat in it for an hour and your hands are starting to go wrinkly. The warm water is crystal clear and flows out of the ground here at about 130 litres a second. The middle of the day is too warm to anything other than riding or swimming. Sitting around in the heat seems to suck the energy out of us more than doing something.
In the town of Mataranka we stopped to check out some local books at the Stockman Gallery. There was a book on crocodile attacks in Australia that I couldn't put down, but I ended up buying a small bird identification and bush tucker field guide. Back at camp we went for another swim in the river and saw a couple of turtles, but I don't have a turtle book so don't know exactly what they were! Having the YTBC with me makes it feel like a holiday, which is probably what I need at the moment.

1 June 2009- Mataranka Hot Springs
Distance: 80 km
Word of the Day: Python (What is the biggest (longest, heaviest, roundest???) snake in Australia?)
Barry pulled out an Olive Python before we left Larrimah this morning. The collection of birds, snakes and reptiles at the caravan park is definitely worth a look if you're passing through. Our plan to leave early and try to avoid the worst of the heat after lunch didn't quite happen. The opportunity to talk to Barry about snakes and have a chance to handle one was too good to pass up. When I held her she decided to go to the toilet down my leg. Barry advised me to wash it off in a serious voice which made me wonder what exactly is in snake poo? Later the YTBC was telling me about Boa Constrictors eating small deer, and that made us wonder how the snakes digest hard things like teeth? All in all we had a lot of questions about snakes that we couldn't answer, and we rode to Mataranka in the heat of the day. Tomorrow we'll take a day to explore the area which includes the Elsey National Park. There will be plenty of time to soak in the famous hot springs too.