Report: April 14
Insect Onslaught, Tidal Not-so-bore-ing, and Forum Firing
Launch from Captain Billy's Landing, Cape York, 2006. All photos on this page by Michael Ralser.
Thwoomp... shneap... thwoomp, thwack. The flying hordes hit me about the face and chest as I hurtled down the narrow country road with closed mouth and squinted eyes. It was nearing dusk and insects ruled the air. Braking lightly I swooped around the corner, leaving the open pasture behind and diving into the forested gully. It darkened and cooled immediately. I took a grateful gulp of air without the accompanying midges, and headed home. With the kayak due to land in Port Moresby today (14th April) I'm left with my bike to zoom around the north west Tasmanian hinterland. I could call it training but it's too much fun to tar it with that brush. And besides, I'm not sure a few lazy kilometers up hill and down dale will prepare me for the argy-bargy of the Fly River.
Speaking of which, I've been reading Tom Cole's memoirs of croc hunting in PNG in the post WW2 era. Rearrange the following words to see what effect it has been having on me; pants, the, me, frightening, off. I'm strangely torn between a feeling of gladness that we have learnt lessons from that period of over-exploitation, and a guilty hope that Tom and his hunters got all the really big ones out of the Fly and Gulf country. Amongst many incredible stories from the book was mention of a phenomenon of direct interest;
"Then suddenly I heard it. I leapt from my bunk - it was a most uncanny sound - and went on deck. The Kiwai was jabbering excitedly, pointing up river. Then I saw it: a great wall of water thundering towards us. I knew immediately what it was - a tidal bore." P.84 The Last Paradise by Tom Cole.
Andrew Storey first mentioned these as something to watch out for in the river estuaries. They form a wall of broken water when the leading edge of the incoming tide battles against the current of an outgoing river. I'll keep my eyes peeled!
At that time I barely had forward paddling sorted out, the complication of sailing was an extra I could do without. Does it add safety, or does it add risk? Can I afford it, or can I afford not to have it? In PNG I need maximum room in the holds for food and water. Every cubic centimeter of space, and kilogram of weight, has to be considered. I've jettisoned some gear I would usually take and added extras to suit the expected conditions. I'll take extra mosquito and rain protection and less heavy sleeping gear, more water bladders and less extra clothing, more room in my head for what might happen and less for what should happen.
In early April I had a stimulating few afternoons with the kids form Hobart's CSIRO after school programs, Double Helix Club and Microscientists. I ran into a few students from Campbell Street Primary, where I'd taught part time last year. We looked at the photos from the 2006 expedition and talked mainly about whales, crocodiles and turtles. Again, I was put under pressure by sharper minds than mine. I survived by speaking loudly and deploying tactical deafness. The next day I spoke to Charles Woolley on his radio show, hopefully we'll continue the conversation on the satellite phone from PNG. I'll let you know if it happens.
In exciting news the expedition forum is now ready to go. Thanks to Elaine Stratford, it's being hosted by Webbing the Islands at www.ripeonline/launchpad/. It's the place to go to leave messages as the journey unfolds and, if you're a student, to deposit your thoughts on climate change. I'll tune in as often as possible through the expedition coordinator (also known as my champion sister-in-law, Bec). You have to register but don't let that stop you from getting involved. Students, teachers, and everyone else are encouraged to dive in and be part of the gang. Please email me if you have any questions about participating.
Finally, many thanks to the Victorian Sea Kayak Club and the North West Walking Club for chipping in with expedition funds, and welcome to new members of the email list. Sorry for not having new photos on this report, I'm in Melbourne visiting family and friends and am in a muddle. These photos were taken by Michael Ralser as I exited the beach at Captain Billy's Landing on Cape York, 2006.
Next report due: 28th April
Until then,
Andrew